The Ultimate Guide to Cascais: written by a local
I am writing this post whilst on my flat in London and I am genuinely shocked that I haven’t written almost anything about my home town – The ‘village’ of Cascais!
I only have fond memories of my life back home, and I cannot believe it has taken me so long to write the ultimate travel guide to Cascais. I don’t know if this ever happens to you, it is funny, I have spent years travelling and now I am writing about home.
Cascais, pronounced [KASH-KY-ISssh] is where I lived for 20 years until I moved to London and ultimately is where my family and best friends live. If you are considering going to Lisbon, you should 100% stop in Cascais for a day trip and adventure in the million places, tastes and beaches that my home town has to offer. So let’s dive right into it.
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Where is Cascais on the map?
Cascais is located in Portugal about 30 to 40 minutes West of Lisbon. Is part of the Portuguese Triangle. The Portuguese Triangle is a term that I often use when telling friends where to go in Portugal. Very frequently I mention about 3 of my favourite places in Portugal – Lisbon – Cascais – Sintra. Together they form a triangle in the map. A lot of people still travel to Lisbon, and do not explore Cascais and Sintra.
Cascais is connected to Lisbon by train, and to Sintra by bus. For me, it is in the perfect location between the busy capital and the mountains of Sintra.
A bit of History
Cascais used to be a village, and locally it is still called ‘Vila de Cascais’. It used to be where the Portuguese Royal Family spent holidays, Portuguese noble-men used to have their holiday houses in Cascais.
When the King and its court started to visit Cascais for leisure to what it is now. In terms of population, the town is just under Lisbon. It has the population to be a city, but it has a particular licence to be forever called a town or a village. Nobleman used to have their holiday houses here.
Originally a fishing village, Cascais grew in popularity to what it is now.
Best time of the year to visit Cascais
The best time to visit Cascais is definitely when the sun is out. Historically, Cascais has good weather for a grand part of the year.
Portuguese winter can be mild, with rain, and in particular in Cascais, windy. Temperature of Portugal in the summer averages 27 degrees. The best time to go to Portugal is between May and October.
July and August are the peak of summer in Cascais not only for its temperature but also for the activities that the town offers. Cascais is definitely the busiest around this time. It is also the best time to visit if you are looking for summer parties that in Cascais happen a lot.
TIP: If you want to avoid large queues, and cheaper accommodation visit Cascais in September. Majority of the kids are back at school, and people returned from their holidays. Everything slows down.
How to Get to Cascais
Cascais is on the westside of Portugal by the sea. It is about 44KM from Lisbon and approximately takes 30min to reach by car. There several ways you can get to Cascais from Lisbon.
By Car
You can rent cars in the airport or Lisbon city centre and have a smooth route to Cascais. You can take the A5 motorway to Cascais (tolls apply) it costs about $1.75 or take the Avenida Marginal. Avenida Marginal is very beautiful to drive. You go by the river and then sea all the way to Cascais.
You are official in Cascais county the moment you pass Oeiras. From Oeiras until Cascais you will encounter endless beaches on your left side, some easier to spot than others. When arriving in Estoril, on your right you have the Casino do Estoril. One of the five casinos in Portugal that inspired the 007 movie Casino Royale.
TIP: When passing Monte de Estoril, just after the Casino, make sure to be on the left side of the avenue. You will have the most stunning view of Cascais, and hopefully you will catch a red road light so you can contemplate the view for 15 seconds!
By train
You can get to Cascais in just under 45 minutes from Cais-do-Sodre in Lisbon. You can view the timetable here.
Amazingly the Portuguese trains company (CP = Comboios Portuguese), do a lot of incentives to use more public transports.
You can get a 24h train ticket for the Cascais line which runs from Cais-do-Sodre and Cascais, where you can hop-on and hop-off for $10 or if you are planning to get to Cascais in the morning and enjoy the beach, and then go to Sintra from Cascais you can get a 24h ticket that includes train and bus for $14
You can also get tickets to Cascais in any ticket machine in the rail station in Lisbon, but be aware that there is normally a massive line.
By bus
Of course you can visit Cascais by bus on an organised tour. This is probably the easiest way to get to Cascais and have everything organised.
I think tours are perfect for people that like to have everything planned ahead and want to go straight to the right places.
Although tours aren’t so much my favourite way of exploring a location, I know how practical they are, and I have experienced some coach tours, inclusive the one from Lisbon to Cascais and the one that goes to Cascais and Sintra and both were great and showed the must sees in both towns.
Where to Stay in Cascais
For this ultimate guide I am presenting you 5 types of hotels and airbnb’s. If this is of interest then, I will write an extended version of all the best places and neighbourhoods to stay in Cascais.
I normally stay at home when I am in Cascais, but I have friends that stayed in hotels when visiting me, and others that manage hotels and own some airbnb. Everything that I am putting here is from my experience and also close to the main areas of Cascais.
→Hotel Grande Real Villa Italia
One of my ultimate favourite hotels in Cascais has to be Grande Real Villa Itália Hotel & Spa. It is an amazing luxury hotel, it has their unique selling points and history. This hotel was the royal house of the kings of Italy. Now transformed into a magnificent hotel. The building looks like it was splashed in orange colour with the window ceilings in white, this hotel offers great size rooms and a pleasant swimming pool. Because of its location, close to the cliffs between Cascais and Guincho, the minerals of this area are perfect for tanning!
→Hotel Albatroz
I used to go to the Albatroz Hotel when I was a little girl. It was part of my family for years. Although I never used the rooms for a holiday, my mum did on several occasions and I remember very much the swimming pool, the 5 star service, the ice cream. My family no longer owns the hotel so I haven’t visited Albatroz for quite some time. Last time I was in Cascais I visited the hotel to say hi to one of my good friends who works at the Albatroz hotel and it was just how I remember!
The hotel is located minutes from Cascais train station and they have a private car park on site. The location is very convenient, it is in the town centre but rather away from where all the nightlife is located so you are sure to have a relaxed night.
When you are at the pool or at the restaurant check the private beach to the left. The same beach can be accessed via the main beach called Praia da Conceição but only when it’s low tide. Be aware of your time exploring this tiny beach so you are not stuck!
Rooms start at $231 per night.
→Hotel Baia
If you are thinking of exploring more Cascais, Sintra and Lisbon, maybe you just need a good hotel. If this is you, you should stay at the Hotel Baia, which offers an amazing location – right in the middle of Cascais town centre. Hotel Baia is kind of a “modern” institution for old Cascais. It was revolutionary at the time. The first of its kind back in the days.
It is a great 3 star hotel and the breakfast is amazing. My mum and I often used to just visit this hotel for its amazing breakfast. You can do a buffet for $19, not bad right?
As well as the rooms, the Hotel Baia has a rooftop bar with views to the oldest beach of Cascais – Praia do Peixe, translated Fish Beach. During the summer this beach and bay is used for summer festivals. So if you can upgrade for a sea view room, make sure you do so.
→Estalagem do Muchaxo
If you are looking for authentic Portuguese old school, Estalagem do Muchaxo is calling your name. I love this little hotel. Has been in the family of Senhor Muchaxo for over 4 generations – my grandad and senhor Muchaxo were friends from school! This Hotel has been a B&B for a long time, it is located in Guincho beach (if you have heard or visited Guincho beach you know what I am talking about). Guincho beach is about 12km from Cascais town and is the hot spot for surfing in Cascais. The beach is perfect, with the best waves but requires a car to get to or you can rely on buses that run every hour.
Staying in Estalagem do Muchaxo is ideal if you want to disconnect. The rooms are very affordable. I don ‘t think the breakfast is the best, but the bed ohhh yesss – specially when you wake up with the sounds of the waves instead of your alarm!!
Where to eat in Cascais?
I am about to share with you my favourite places to eat in Cascais. The list is not completed, however, I am sure you will love every place I suggest here. Disclaimer: some of these places might be statically pleasant, but one thing is for sure, they are tasty and the service is great! In my next post I will add a full list of restaurants/cafes in Cascais.
Every year new restaurants come up in Cascais, but only a few stay and make the local’s list of best places to eat. The places that I am listing here are the very few restaurants that if you are to join my next year’s trip to Portugal you will be trying ↓
yess, you read it right, next year I am doing a trip to Portugal to anyone interested in visiting my hometown, I will explain more, but sign up here if you are interested in joining
Enough of what you can try next year, if you are visiting Cascais this year, these are the places that you need to pay a visit and have some food at:
→You must visit Pateo do Petisco authentic portuguese food
Pateo do Petisco is perfect if you want good food but you aren’t fussed about having a super 3 course dinner style experience. It is the place that locals go, where locals start working to earn some extra income. The food is soooo tasty, and you can find local dishes with an edge to them.
📍 Pateo da Torre (google maps link)
📍 Pateo do Mercado da Vila (google maps link)
→Try Spi [old Skipper] for the best Bitoque in Cascais Marina
You might be asking what a Bitoque is, and why it needs to be highlighted in a title of a place as the ‘Best places to eat in Cascais’. A Bitoque is a traditional thin steak (cooked at your taste) with fried potatoes, best when hand cut potatoes, served with a fried egg on top and the best mustardy sauce (the house recipe – I just know it is divine and I am mouth watering writing this!!)
Skippers has been providing meals to sailors, yacht owners, and general staff from Cascais Marina for decades and still keeps the same recipe for its Bitoque. It is dog friendly and 100% a must stop for a traditional, tender Bitoque.
If you are visiting in the summer nights, Cascais marina can be quite busy, so I suggest booking your table in advance.
📍Marina de Cascais Loja 35-36 (google maps link)
Visit Rua Amarela if you like to try infusion Portuguese food and worldwide cuisine – Best Restaurants in Rua Amarela
Rua Amarela is a street in Cascais town centre painted in yellow. You have probably heard of the pink street in Lisbon (Cais-do-Sodre), same concept but in Cascais.
In Rua Amarela you can find a lot of different types of cuisine, all with a twist of Portuguese flavours mixing.
I love seafood, and mussels in the summer with Gin or Wine is everything and more! Start your main with Moules et Frite (french for Mussels and fried) and if you want a suggestion for the Gin, grab the blue magic Portuguese gin.
📍Rua Nova da Alfarrobeira (google maps link)
→I worked in Hamburgaria do Bairro – am I biassed?! Haha!
Let’s start from the beginning. The concept. It is simple, they make burgers with traditional bread from Madeira. Then they grab a traditional burger and create a revolution of flavors. They go ‘bananas’ (quite literally) and add pineapple in a picanha patty, with the option to double it, with gorgonzola on top, and even the possibility of swapping the amazing fries for sweet potato ones – BANG the perfect burger*
Of course you can have a standard cheese burger.
Another great reason to try the Hamburgaria do Bairro is their several vegan options – which are super tasty!
You must book a table in the summer, the restaurant doesn’t have a lot of tables and this strip of restaurants is super popular!
📍Rua Alexandre Herculano (google maps link)
→Malacopa Bar for that spicy hit!
If you love Mexican food, Malacoba bar is for you. Different dishes than the traditional Mexican Tacos, with a large variety of pieces. Everything, and I mean EVERYTHING is homemade, from the Guac to Tacos.
You can also build your own Tacos which offers a completely alternative concept.
→Japanese lover? Izakaya is your next destination then!
I often say 2 things about food: 1. “I would move to Japan for its food”, and 2. “I love tapas because I eat a bit of everything”.
So now imagine both together. It’s Izakaya! Izakaya is not a traditional Sushi place, but yes a fusion between Japanese recipes, Spanish traditional way of eating ‘tapas’, and Portuguese ingredients. Three distinctive countries, with strong cultures, blended in a plate, located in a corner of Rua Amarela.
Could I describe it better?
If you are looking at a place that blows your mind, you don’t need to think much longer. Book a table in advance, Izakaya gets fully booked all year.
📍Rua do Poço Novo (google maps link)
→Stop at John Bull if you want to be well served in a touristy area
Cascais town centre is known as Largo de Camoes. In the town centre there are several restaurants and a lot of competition between them. As a tourist, you are likely to be called in, approached by the servers whilst walking pass, incentivized to check out the menu. It can be full on. I have worked in the square back in 2015.
I personally like to take friends to the square for food, although it is touristy, the food is authentic. The difference is more to do with the price. In places such as John Bull, you are likely to pay between $5 to $7 more than in other restaurants outside the square. It is, however, the price that you pay to have live music, vibe and great atmosphere.
Coming back to John Bull, the English style pub turned into a restaurant is by far the BEST restaurant in the square. The service is great, the staff remembers you year after year and the food is proper Portuguese.
If you do go there, feel free to say that Miriam recommended you, they often tell me that people came because I recommended – sweet isn’t it?
What to do in Cascais
Although Cascais has a smallish town centre, there is plenty to do – especially during the summer.
Cascais is surrounded by sea by almost 300 degrees. People come to Cascais to enjoy the food, slow down, and appreciate a relaxed lifestyle. With this said, the best thing to do in Cascais in the summer is to enjoy the several beaches that the destination has to offer.
Best beaches in Cascais/Estoril
Praia do Guincho
Praia da Poça
Praia da Rainha
Praia da Crismina
Praia da Rata
Praia da Azarujinha
Praia da Conceição
Palm Beach
Praia do Tamariz
Praia do Peixe
Praia de Santa Marta
Explore Cascais Old Town
Stroll around the old town. If you like to wander and admire cute little chalets, then Cascais Old Town is for you.
Small little houses, charming corners and picturesque varandas. Cascais old town is full of hidden gems. This part of the town is normally less visited, even by tourists.
Visit Marina for shopping, food and dancing
Cascais Marina is a great place to go for coffee, food, and shopping. There is plenty of variety to spend a great afternoon in the Marina and entertain yourself with people watching.
Check out traditional snacks!
When in doubt, enter a Portuguese cafe and ask for 4 things: 1 espresso, pastel de nata, areia de Cascais (if you are in Cascais), and a natural orange juice.
Areia de Cascais, translated to Sand of Cascais, is the local sweet pastry from the area. It is quite similar to shortbread but with more sugar!
Biju is a great place for traditional snacks and coffee!
Rent a Paddle board
In Praia da Rainha, Conceição and palm beach you rent your paddle board and enjoy 30 minutes of relaxation in the calm water around off the Paredão. The beaches in the what we call line (the strip of beaches from Lisbon until Cascais), can be quite boring for those who prefer the waves, but are for sure the delight for those who are curious about SUP. You can hire your paddle and off you go.
Ocean Activities, a water sport activity shop in Conceição beach has years of experience and can sort out everything in no time.
Take a Surf lesson
Surfing is something that every portuguese from Cascais has either done, watched hours of, or knows someone that does it all the time.
I used to surf a bit when I lived in Portugal. When I am home for more than 5 days, I still call my cousins to go and surf. But I must admit that I am definitely the same person I was 10 years ago!
I am lucky to have my two cousins who are semi-professional surfers. In comparison with me they are olympic haha!
There are several surfing schools that you can join. My first school was called Angels Surf located in Carcavelos (17 min drive from Cascais) and then my cousin.
You can contact my cousin here. He works for a school called and a surf camp called Surf Camp Surf Cascais.
Alternatively, both Get Your Guide offer lessons on their site, and by experience they are decent.
Locations: Guincho or Carcavelos beach
Eat Santini Ice Cream
Thee is no visiting Cascais without trying Santini Ice cream. Cascais is famous for this particular ice cream. But what is it so special about it? You ask with all your rights. The Santini Ice Cream has been part of Cascais for more than 50 years. It is the story of an old Italian family, called the Santini family, that created the traditional ice cream recipe in Cascais to sell to people.
Santini ice cream has been passing generations and generations and inspiring the many people around the world. All the flavours are natural made, and there especially are the fruit flavours.
Although Santini is known for their fruity flavours, my favourite is Dolce de Leith, Stracciatella (cream with chocolate bits) and Hazelnut, but the lemon and basil is also super refreshing!
tip
The queue for Santini is usually huge. Some queue for 1 hour. To avoid the queue you can buy a card that gives you pre-paid ice creams and skip-the-line access to the counter. All you have to do is choose your flavours!
This Guide
There are so many more things that I wish to share with you. So whilst writing this post I thought that why not instead of just writing, also organise a get together in Lisbon and show you everything that I write about my home country?
I mean, I won’t be able to tour Portugal in one week, but 100% share the Portuguese Triangle 🙂
I hope this post was helpful, if you are visiting Cascais soon make sure to take some notes. I will be deep diving in some of the topics from this ultimate topic and add more to read.
If you are going to Lisbon, check out my Best Lisbon Travel Guide: From a Local where equally I share great places to eat amazing spots for views and experiences.
Flying from outside Europe? no worries, I share here the tips and hacks for long-haul flights, but feel free to comment or message me on Instagram or on the contacts page if you need any tips!
If you have any questions feel free to comment below and I will be happy to answer !
Safe travels!
With love, Miri
